Friday, February 20, 2009

Angela Lloyd rates Dornier Donatus and Pinotage highly

GRAPE.CO.ZA: The Dornier Pinotage 2007 (R77) 16.5 couldn't be more different; it is an elegant, sophisticated wine with sound ageing potential for eight to ten years. The deep ruby colour is layered and limpid; a touch of cedary oak seasons the quiet, dark berry fruit, reflective more of its pinot than its cinsaut parentage. A refreshing minerality lifts the rich savouriness, which flows unhindered to a lengthy finish thanks to the beautifully managed, polished tannins. Careful oaking, all French and 11% new for a year, does the correct job of enhancing the wine. We enjoyed it at a coolish 16-17ÂșC. Also impressive is the Dornier Donatus White 2007 (R96) 16, a blend of chenin blanc and semillon (74/26). Each variety is barrel-fermented in a mix of new and used French oak and aged on the lees for a further seven months before blending and bottling. Like all quality blends, the varieties create an homongenous and interesting whole; a whiff of new oak vanilla is presently noticeable but should marry as the wine ages. Medium-bodied and refined with a fine, mineral core, it leaves the impression that greater dimension is there to unfold over the next four to five years. A worthy addition to the list of top white blends.